Thailand's 'long-necked' women struggle to survive during pandemic

The Kayan village near Mae Rim is a popular tourist destination in the vicinity of the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai. Known for its Long Neck women, the village used to have a steady influx of visitors from around the world. But, without any foreign tourists visiting Thailand, the village is now empty.

Mu Ei is 32 years old, and, like most people in the village, she is of Kayan ethnicity. Some girls start wearing neck rings when they are just 5 years old.

At the entrance of the village, the ticket stand sits empty, as no visitors are expected. Before the pandemic, the Kayan village saw a steady stream of visitors every day. Most of them came from China.

Thai tourists are not as intrigued by the women as foreigners are. Mu Ei and others who have been made reliant on tourism for income are waiting for visitors to be permitted to return.

Mu Ei prepares a crude fire to cook dinner for her family in the small yard in front of their bamboo hut. She cooks very basic food such as rice and bananas. There isn't enough money for other ingredients.

Mu Ei has two children, aged 2 and 6. She is very concerned about her family's future. The only income her family is currently able to generate is through her husband's sporadic jobs in construction and agriculture.

Mu Ei and other women from the village receive food from an aid organization at the entrance of the village. Mu Ei said she used to make over 600 baht (€16/$20) per day before the pandemic began. Now her daily income is close to 0.

A teddy bear is left behind by a family that left the village because of fears of COVID-19 and not having any money to live on. The majority of Kayan people are from Myanmar, and many have returned since the pandemic began.

Despite the lack of tourists and no guided tours, Mu Ei lays out her souvenirs every day, optimistic that tourists will visit the village. Under Thailand's pandemic travel regulations, tourism-dependent livelihoods like hers based on tourism will be difficult to maintain.