In Sochi’s shadow – Abkhazia’s ambitions

The shell of the Soviet Abkhaz parliament building stands in the heart of the city as a monument to the terrible 1992-1993 war with Georgia. What followed the conflict was 20 years of neglect and decay. The war left the country de facto independent from Georgia but with a devastated infrastructure and economy. Financial dependence on Russia still plays a big part despite a desire for independence.

A sub-tropical playground for the Tsarist empire elite, Abkhazians were forbidden to live within five kilometres (3.1 miles) of the coast. At the end of the 19th century European style hotels opened whilst wealthy Russians and Greeks experimented with new architectural styles. During the Soviet era Sukhumi was a favorite summer retreat for the Moscow politburo and intellectuals too.

Financial assistance from Russia aids the construction and infrastructure sector as well as the educational system with new schools and kindergartens. Although Russian is an official language and the most widely spoken, a special law which comes into effect in 2015 will require state and educational institutions to shift to the Abkhazian language to support aspirations of total independence.

Vladislav Ardzinba was the first President of Abkhazia and led the nation to de facto independence in the 1992-1993 war with Georgia. He emerged as a gifted politician in particularly complex circumstances during the break-up and fragmentation of the Soviet Union. Post war, Ardzinba balanced demands for independence with keeping Moscow on side. His image is found plastered across the nation.

Djarnaz Beniya, head of the Abkhaz wrestling committee, who coached Denis Tsargush; a double world champion and bronze medallist at the 2012 London Olympic Games, is a firm believer that sport brings people together: "Our dream is to compete in the Olympics as Abkhazans." Currently the International Olympic Committee does not recognize Abkhazia and athletes compete under the Russian flag.

In Sukhumi’s parks, on streets and promenades, young, middle-aged and old men play dominoes. Its popularity transcends all ages and is considered to almost be a national sport. In 2011 Abkhazia hosted the World Domino Championships in the individual and team events. Over 200 competitors came from countries such as Russia, the US, Venezuela and Jamaica.

Football was the most popular sport in Abkhazia during Soviet times and several talented football players played for top Georgian teams. Since Abkhazia broke away from Georgia, it organizes its own amateur Abkhazian football league which is not part of any international football union. Many football clubs provide training facilities as well as foreign trips for talented youngsters.

In an attempt to attract Russian tourists visiting Sochi during the Winter Olympic Games, Abkhazia simplified its visa regulations for those entering the region from Russia. For foreign nationals, what was meant to be a largely symbolic checkpoint between Abkhazia and Russia has turned out to be a more significant barrier.

But, the border is closed for Abkhazians after the Russian government ordered its closure on security grounds due to fears terrorists would use the gateway to gain access to Sochi. This leaves many Abkhazians, such as Gunda, a cafe owner, who earns her living from pedestrians crossing the border, in a precarious situation, waiting for restrictions to be lifted.

Travel restrictions imposed by Russian authorities have dashed the hopes of many tourists who wanted to cross the border to enjoy Sukhumi's pebbly beaches. While certain nationals can still cross the border on foot, train services from Sukhumi to Moscow and Sochi have been cancelled for the duration of the Games.

Minister for Economic Development, David Akopovich, says the investment climate in Abkhazia has considerably improved since Russia recognized independence. Russian and Turkish companies have demonstrated their willingness to further develop cooperation with Abkhazia. Since 2008, Russia has given Abkhazia over $100 million (726,911 euros) in aid to improve its infrastructure and transport system.

The majority of the Abkhazian population are Orthodox Christians. The second largest religious group are the Sunni Muslims. As in other regions of the Caucasus, Armenians living in Abkhazia are part of the Armenian Apostolic Church. There are also other religious groups; however the majority who declare themselves Christian or Muslim do not attend religious services.

The exact size of Abkhazia's population still remains unclear. The war with Georgia saw the displacement and expulsion of over 250,000 Georgians half of the Republic's population. The current population is estimated at 215,000, down from 525,000 in 1989 (the last conducted Soviet census). Many of them rely on Russian money, pensions or trade to survive.