Chanel No. 5: the cult perfume turns 100

At the beginning of the 1920s, a new era began in the world of fragrances. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) aimed to express modernity with the design of her perfume's bottle: angular, distinctive, minimalist. The black sans serif lettering emblazoned on a white label echoed the lines of the bottle. The design was even included in the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 1959.

Her perfume was launched on the fifth day of the fifth month in 1921. To generate buzz, Chanel distributed bottles to elite customers and friends without revealing that she had commissioned the new fragrance. The dressing rooms of her boutique were sprayed with the scent. By 1924, Chanel No. 5 was already distributed worldwide, and a separate "Chanel Parfums" entity was established in the company.

Chanel couldn't have hoped for better publicity than the Marilyn Monroe interview with magazine "Marie-Claire" in 1960, in which she famously told chief editor Georges Belmont that she wore "five drops of Chanel No. 5" and nothing else in bed. The Hollywood star's confession contributed to the perfume's popularity not only among women, but also men.

Pop art star Andy Warhol also immortalized Chanel No. 5 in his screen prints, cementing the iconic status of the perfume's bottle with four different versions of his "Ads: Chanel" series from 1985. The photographer Helmut Newton also created artistic ads focusing on the elegant bottle.

"A woman who doesn't use perfume has no future," was a catchphrase attributed to Coco Chanel. The fashion designer worked with perfumer Ernest Beaux on the creation of the famous fragrance. No. 5 is still the best-selling perfume in the world today. Of course its story was also depicted in the 2009 film "Coco Chanel," with Anna Mouglalis in the lead role.

Coco Chanel became famous for her designs combining functionality and style. She wanted to convey her idea of elegance to the world: freedom, emancipation and comfort. Back then, women still wore corsets and large hats. Chanel countered with sporty designs that were nevertheless very stylish.

Coco Chanel's favorite number was 5; she had apparently developed the belief as a child that it was her lucky number. According to fashion magazine "Vogue," she chose the name "No. 5" because the perfume she had selected was the fifth sample in a series of proposed fragrances.

Coco Chanel did not like the perfumes of her time. They usually consisted of just one flower: rose or jasmine. She believed that they should rather have character, in order to express a woman's personality. Chanel No. 5's recipe is a secret, but it is supposed to be made from jasmine and may rose, but with the added abstract touch to eclipse all other existing perfumes.

Coco Chanel once described her Chanel No. 5 as the "scent of a northern morning by a lake." Those looking for a last-minute present to express their love still go for the classic perfume to this day. Jean Cocteau, shown here with Coco Chanel in the late 50s, would certainly have agreed. The author and the fashion designer were good friends until his death in 1963.

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel started out as a hat maker in Biarritz. From there, she built her empire - probably profiting from Nazi connections during the German occupation of France, as a book in 2011 revealed. Her creations revolutionized the look of women: from calf-length skirts to airy trousers and the "little black dress," she created fashion classics. And Chanel No. 5: the classic of perfumes.